Hot Rod Project

Ray's " Hot Rod"

1930 Ford Five Window Coupe

	I found the 1930 Ford Coupe in a on-line add. After agreeing on a price, I traveled from Western NY to South Carolina to bring the five window coupe home.
	My brother Bob lives in North Carolina, very close to where I purchased the coupe. It was nice to spend a few days with him and his wife Linda.
	Leaving North Carolina and on the road to Western NY.
	Just purchased from South Carolina; 1930 ford Coupe
	Many of the repair body panels were tacked welded in place.
	My friend Don is completing the stich welding on the repairs.
	Rumble seat will be removed and a trunk will be installed. This will require a new rear trunk panel and a hinge conversion.
	New trunk lid installed to replace the rusted rumble lid shin.
	Rumble seat rear panel is different from the trunk panel. A new panel has been installed to allow for the trunk conversion.
	Repairs made to the trunk lid sub structure. A new 17.5 gallon stainless fuel tank and fuel lines have been installed.
	The battery has been relocated into the trunk area. This should provide for easy access and a clean look.
	New lower cowl panels have been welded into place.
	Patches tacked welded in to place and ready to be dollied into shape.
	Fenders have had patches welded in place.
	Rebuilt 1950 Mercury flat head engine with a 3/4 racing cam.
	Mercury engine with Edelbrock 3-Duce set up and Offenhauser heads.
	Aluminum radiator with an electric fan set up.
	Purchased a Holley 59 Carburetor at the Warsaw NY car show. I now have a matched pair of secondary carburetors.
	Installation for the roof sub wood supports, new wood frame around the rear side window and new wood for the rear window. The wood will be completed after the installation of a new stainless steel gas tank behind the seat.
	The fuel tanks has been removed from under the dash. and relocated behind the seat. This now allows for the dash to be customized for the gauges. Speedometer, tachometer, fuel, volts, temperature and oil presure.
	Side view of the dash and gauges.
	The dash has been drilled and gages set in place. Note that they are two temperature gages required for the flathead engine. The steering wheel is a recently augured Banjo style wheel from a 1937-1938 Ford

	After purchasing two 1938 Ford Banjo steering wheels in need of restoration, I decided to try and replace the plastic covering, What you are looking at in the picture to the left is back half of a mold I made out of MDF sheet stock. The Johnson's paste wax was used as a release agent.
	This is the front section of the mold also made out of MDF sheet stock.
	The Ford Banjo wheel setting in the mold. The color material is modeling clay that I used to seal the mold around the Banjo spokes. The discoloration around the center cut-out is the Johnson paste wax used to prevent any sticking of the plastic two part resin.
	The two half's of the molds are aligned and secured with numerous screws on both sides of the mold.
	After the molds were mated and secured with the screws, additional clay was used to dam up around the banjo spokes.
	The mold was turned vertical and a funnel was used to direct the resin into the pouring hole.
	The resen is now in the mold. The resin used had a working time of only 2 minutes. One has to work very fast to insure the mold is completely filled in one pour.
	After 15 minutes, the molds were taken apart and a new 1938 Ford Banjo wheel appears. Note the three pour spouts at the top of the wheel. The center spout was the pore location and the other two where the vent holes that allowed the mold to be poured very quickly.
	Thee steering wheel has had the pouring spouts cut off and will need to be sanded, imperfections repaired and will receive a red bas coat clear coat to match the red Ultra Leather interior.



	A center bench seat from a Mini Van has been modified to fit the Coupe.
	bench seat was mounted to a cut down seat frame from a 2000 Chevrolet Silverado bench seat. The seat is currently not installed, but will be after the completion of the interior panels and gas tank. The upholstery will be recovered in leather. Color has not been chosen as of this time.
	A 1967 Ford Farline 4-speed shifter has been purchased to replace the damaged shifter that is currently on the 30.
	The original gas tank has been removed and cut to allow for the front dash panel to be used for gauges and switches.
	Paint has been stripped by using chemical strip and 80 grit sandpaper.
	Paint removed and the firewall has been cut for recessed area for the Mercury flat-head. A tin template will be replaced with a recessed steel firewall.
	Body parts have been repaired and are awaiting paint removal. Two new rear fenders were purchased. he original fenders needed too much repair/welding.




	The engine, transmission and differential were not aligned. A new center cross-member has been made and installed. The drive train is now in a straight line. The frame is at the welding shop to complete patch welding, rear axle repair and completion of the center cross-member. A 3:55 positraction axle has been purchased and is also being installed with new seals and gaskets.
	The 1950 Mercury flat head should be Mercury Green. We decided to paint it red to match the motor color to the interior, rolled & pleated Red Ultra-Leather.
	The Aluminum Offenhauser heads, Edlebrock intake and timing cover have been media blasted using glass bead. I am in the process of securing a brass wire wheel to complete the finish to the aluminum parts.
	Ford/Holley 2-barrel carburetors will be the next parts to be restored. The two secondary carburetors are Ford/Holley 97.
	Restored Eldlebrock aluminum intake with three Ford/Holley carburetors.
	Rstored Eldlebrock aluminum intake with three Ford/Holley carburetors.
	The front view of the Mercury flathead and the freshly painted front suspension.
	The 1930 Chassis and drive-train are being united after removal, painting, and replaced parts.
	The Mercury flathead had been rebuilt by the previous owner. The engine was removed, parts cleaned, media blasted, painted and new gaskets are in the process of being installed.

	The 1930 coupe had a lack of torque when taking off in first gear. I jacked up the rear axle, spun the rear tire one complete revolution and counted the revolutions of the differential driveshaft yoke. The yoke spun 2:70 (+ or -) revolutions. I researched differential ratios when used with a flathead engine and determined it should be between a 3:25 and 4:10 ratio. I found a ford 8" carrier with a 3:55 positraction gear set and installed it in the ford 8" axle housing.
	The transmission is a Ford 1967 top-loader. The transmission has been cleaned on the inside and exterior and painted red to keep with the *"Old-School Theme"* of the 1930 five window coupe.
	Bad day!!! The 1950 Mercury flathead was to have only 500 miles on it since it was rebuilt. I removed the engine from the chassis after mock-up and was in the process of install new gaskets. I started to remove the crankshaft main bearing caps to install the rear main seal and noticed that one of the center bearing cap bolts was broken. After further inspection I found that the center cap was broken. The engine is now in complete tear down mode and will soon be taken to an RV Engine's for inspection and and installation of a different main bearing cap.
	7RA-6339 Center main bearing cap. Note the crack/brake line on the left hand side. This is the same cape as pictured above.
	Note the difference in color or tone of the broken area. the right side of the bolt looks to brighter or line a new brake where as as the left side is darker and has the appearance of an older brake or crack.
http://www.fordbarn.com/ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/	I was now in need of advise and some center main bearing caps. I posted on the Ford Barn and Old Jalopy Journal for help and advise. I soon had offers for "Free" bearing caps and with in day's the caps were in the mail. I sent one member $25.00 for his troubles, shipping ($ 5.00) and the gas he used to mail the (FREE) caps. He responded to an email that I had sent him that I had sent him too much money. Another member sent me a complete set of bearing caps. No charges and did not want reimbursement for postal charges. He stated, "I just wanted to see a video of the motor running." I would like to thank all that has help me with this bearing problem. Great people are still out there and willing to help.
	"The third time is a charm" Rick (RV Engines) installed three center caps before he found the perfect match. RV engines is working to fix my 1950 Mercury Flathead engine. The reason received for the broken bolt and cap is that the bolt threads bottomed out prior to the head of the bolt touching the cap. Over tightening of the bolt fracturing the bolt causing it and the cap to fail.
	It's Back! The 1950 Mercury Flathead is back from the engine builder $$$$$. The flathead was to have only 500 miles on a rebuild, ?????. The previous builders work was poor at best and the only internal parts that we could or wanted to save were the piston, oil pump, crankshaft (polished) and two of the main caps. The block looked to have original sludge from 1950, we removed all the plugs from the oil passages and completely cleaned the inside of the block.
	The flathead in now on the frame and connected to the Ford 4-speed top loader and the 3.55 Ford 8" differential. The next thing I need to do with the engine is to fire it up and brake in the Max ! Isky camshaft!
	There were two different style window regulators in the 1930. They will be media blasted and sealed prior to installing in the doors.
	Window regulators
	Ford 8" rear wheel brake system. I was in need of all the emergency brake parts. The parts have been found and installed . The parking brake handle and cables will be a Lokar brake system.
	Brake and clutch pedals, master cylinder, brake lines and steering box and column are in the installation process.
	Steering box
	The ford 8" differential carrier has been changed to a 3.55 posi unit to help with low end torque.
	The new transmission cross-member has been installed. The drivetrain is now one straight line.